Exposing Greenwashing: How to Spot False Sustainability Claims & Protect Our Planet – Part 1 | Tangelic Talks S02EP05

Tangelic Talks – Season 02 | Episode 05

Exposing Greenwashing: How to Spot False Sustainability Claims & Protect Our Planet - Part 1

6 minutes to read

In this two-part Tangelic Talks special, we unpack the many faces of greenwashing — from misleading labels and language to PR strategies that deflect accountability.

Episode 1: “Exposing Greenwashing” explores how companies use language, visuals, and vague claims to appear environmentally responsible without making real change. We examine examples like H&M’s “Conscious Collection,” Nike’s “Move to Zero,” and Coca-Cola’s eco-themed packaging, showing how brands exploit trust through deceptive imagery, undefined labels, and emotionally charged storytelling. We also dive into “hidden trade-offs” and selective data, revealing how partial truths and skewed metrics obscure the real environmental impact.

What is Greenwashing? 

The most widely accepted definition of greenwashing is proposed by de Freittas Netto et al (2020) “the intersection of two firm behaviors: poor environmental performance and positive communication about environmental performance” . This means a company may engage in environmentally harmful practices while simultaneously promoting an environmentally friendly image.

de Freitas Netto, S.V., Sobral, M.F.F., Ribeiro, A.R.B. et al. Concepts and forms of greenwashing: a systematic review. Environ Sci Eur 32, 19 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12302-020-0300-3

It’s so hard to define because it can be one of these or all of them:

A recent study by Spaniol et al (2024) identifies six key attributes of greenwashing:

  1. An environmental claim made by a private sector organization.
  2. The claim pertains to a product or service.
  3. The claim cannot be substantiated.
  4. The claim is made with deceptive intent.
  5. The claim aims to establish a competitive advantage.
  6. The claim misleads stakeholders about the organization’s environmental performance

Spaniol, M. J., Danilova-Jensen, E., Nielsen, M., Rosdahl, C. G., & Schmidt, C. J. (2024). Defining Greenwashing: A Concept Analysis. Sustainability, 16(20), 9055. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16209055

Key Points Covered in this Episode

We examine terms like “sustainable,” “green,” and “eco-conscious” — words that sound good but often lack definitions or third-party verification.

Example: H&M 'Conscious Collection'

What Happened:

H&M, one of the world’s largest fast fashion retailers, launched its “Conscious Collection” as a supposedly more environmentally friendly clothing line. The collection was heavily marketed as being made from “sustainable materials” such as organic cotton or recycled polyester. Labels and in-store displays used green tones, leaf imagery, and language like “do good,” “sustainably made,” and “eco-conscious.”

However, several watchdog investigations — including by the Norwegian Consumer Authority and Quartz — found that:

  • Many claims were vague, with no specific data provided about environmental savings.

  • Items labeled “Conscious” were in some cases no more sustainable than items in the regular collection.

  • In some instances, H&M’s environmental scorecards gave incorrect or misleading information, exaggerating sustainability benefits.

Why It’s Considered Greenwashing:
  • Lack of Transparency: H&M did not consistently disclose what qualified a product as “conscious” or what percentage of the garment was made from sustainable materials. The company used feel-good buzzwords without verifying or explaining them in detail.

  • No Substantial Change in Business Model: The Conscious Collection represented a tiny fraction of H&M’s overall output. H&M continued to mass-produce cheap clothing at high volumes, contributing to overconsumption and waste — the very issues at the heart of fashion’s climate impact.

  • Selective Truth-Telling: By highlighting limited sustainable features (e.g., recycled buttons or organic cotton sleeves), H&M distracted from the environmental toll of its supply chain, production rates, and labor practices — a classic example of “hidden trade-offs.”

  • Misleading Certifications: Some pieces bore certifications or green icons that lacked independent verification or were not explained, giving the illusion of third-party endorsement.

The Impact:
  • Regulatory Scrutiny & Legal Complaints: Authorities in Norway and the Netherlands warned H&M over its use of misleading sustainability claims. In 2022, a class-action lawsuit was filed in the U.S. against H&M, accusing the company of “greenwashing” through deceptive marketing of its Conscious Collection.

  • Consumer Backlash: The case significantly damaged H&M’s reputation among conscious consumers and sustainability advocates. It highlighted how large brands can use the language of sustainability to protect their image without making meaningful change.

  • Broader Awareness of Greenwashing in Fashion: The incident became a textbook example of how fast fashion co-opts the sustainability movement. It helped push calls for stricter regulation around environmental marketing, transparency in supply chains, and independent auditing of eco-claims.

Sources to learn more: 
  • Article by Tabitha Whining on Medium. (2024)
  • H&M Press Release in 2019
  • Article by the Sustainable Fashion Forum (2024)
  • Article by Forbes on the Impact of Misleading Consumers (2022)

Seek out authenticity, Advocate for transparency, and Challenge brands that profit from confusion.

Research the Company’s Track Record

  • Use tools like:
    • Good On You – fashion brand ratings.
    • Climate Action 100+ – accountability for major emitters.
    • NGO or media reports (Greenpeace, Earth Island Journal, etc.).

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